GASTRONOMIC ROUTES

SHEEP’S CHEESE ROUTE

The District of La Serena is one of the most beautiful areas of countryside for the extensive breeding of sheep. Merino sheep that, together with the pig, form the magical duo of Extremadura farming, have found a suitable habitat for breeding and rearing in the harsh yet honest lands of the region.

The Extremadura sheep census stands currently at approximately 3.7 million heads, mostly of the merino breed, which represents 50% of all sheep in Spain. All historic evidence points to the idea that the merino sheep is an autochthonous animal from this region, as it was known in Extremadura centuries before it was seen in other parts. Its adaptation to the Extremadura geography of the pastureland and extensive meadow lands make it an essential, valuable part of the entire regional eco-system and vital in its role regenerating and fertilising the land where its grazes.

More specifically in Serena, where the soil barely covers the rock layer, the merino sheep plays its role of fertiliser with complete vigour and exclusiveness (as it would be impossible to replace), giving rise to a symbiotic process: sheep-shepherd-land, which is of vital importance to ensure the way of life and the economy of this District prevail. An excellent cheese was a certainty from such good sheep. The Cheese from La Serena comes exclusively from merino sheep’s milk and is produced by hand using raw, unpasteurised milk that is left to ripen for around 60 days.

The production of 15 sheep is required to make one kilo of cheese, given the scarce daily milk production per animal of approximately 0.3 litres. Depending on the ripeness of the cheese, it will be creamy, oily and ivory-coloured when known as torta, semi-hard with eyes or mature with a hard curd and rind and a slightly spicy flavour.

One of the mysteries of this wonderful cheese, especially when produced as torta, is the curdling process made using the rennet obtained from the pistils of the wild cardoon. Once curdled, the wisdom and patience of the Extremadura shepherds will give shape and life to the homemade “La Serena” cheese, the incomparable gem of Extremadura cuisine. This cheese has easily exceeded those it has been compared against during tasting events and contests, its best showcases being the Trujillo Cheese Fair and the Merino Exhibition at Castuera.

Confirmation of its economic and commercial significance is nowadays primarily valued by the recognition of its Designation of Origin. Experts believe Torta to be one of the basic cheeses occupying a privileged place on the cheese boards of the best national and international restaurants.

It would not be fair to discuss "La Torta de la Serena" without mentioning its sister "La Torta del Casar de Cáceres", identical in every way and worthy of the same praise. The route through La Serena is traced by cheeses and one must set off to enjoy the rich, tasty and ancient regional cuisine. Mainly shepherd's cuisine, with flavours reminiscent of traditional shepherding and the seasonal migration of livestock: restless, firm and authentic. Anywhere is a good place to enjoy lamb dishes, which in Castuera or Cabeza del Buey are considered sublime, with their caldereta (casserole) recipes.

There is no masterly recipe, not even the age of the animal matters, although caldereta experts in La Serena say that it must be cooked over a very low heat so that the meat marinades in its own fragrance, accompanied by plenty of olive oil, a few cloves of garlic, a bay leaf and a glass of dry white wine.

Alongside the caldereta, lamb is cooked "en cardincha" in the region with artichokes and wild asparagus or with albilla grapes and potatoes, roasting its legs and its ribs. Seasonality and availability permitting, lamb’s tail stews and the many different ways of cooking tripe must be tasted.

The route offers gastronomic possibilities that include: The ajo de cardillos (garlic cardoons), the fried egg gazpacho, the rabbit salmorejo and, for dessert, the nougat in Castuera. The cardoons in egg sauce, marinated carp and, when possible, the wonderful lizard in almond sauce in Campanario. The cachorreña, one of the most emblematic cold dishes of the region in Cabeza del Buey, as well as its famous sweets, borrachuelos.

In Monterrubio de la Serena, as well as the oil that is considered a gastronomic gem, a delightful roast suckling pig is prepared and, in Higuera de la Serena, cheese croquettes and homemade chicken stuffed with cheese are worth a break to try.