WEEKEND EXCURSIONS

A DAY OUT IN “LA CAMPIÑA SUR” REGION

This region is situated geographically to the south of Extremadura, bordering on the Sierra Morena in Andalucia and on the provinces of Córdoba and Seville. A veritable Mecca for cereal crops since the time of the Romans and the Arabs, over the centuries it has been chosen as home by all the cultures which have crossed this region.

AN ITINERARY FOR TOURISTS

We begin our itinerary in Llerena which has splendid examples of Mudejar and Baroque art, in particular the 14th century Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de Granada, the patio of the Tribune of the Inquisition and the attractive Bishop’s Palace. The Plaza Mayor (Main Square) deserves special mention as it is an architectonic site of great beauty in which a special part is played by the afore-mentioned Church of Nuestra Señora de Granada and the many semi-circular archways of its arcades.

                                Church Nuestra Señora de la Granada

Taking the regional road which leads to Fuente del Arco, close to the border with the province of Seville, we drive through a place called Casas de Reina which has a Mudejar style Parish Church. Not far from here we can visit the Roman ruins of Regina in the foothills of the Sierra Morena where a magnificent theatre has been conserved, with capacity for a thousand people. From the theatre we can see the ruins of a majestic Arab “alcazaba” or fortress in the neighbouring village of Reina, a monument which has been declared of Historic and Artistic interest and within which an ancient Visigoth basilica has been conserved.
We now head downhill to continue on our way towards Fuente del Arco, the final village in Extremadura on this road which runs through the Sierra Morena on its way to the Guadalquivir Valley.The houses are all painted white and the handsome Mudejar style Hermitage of the Virgin of Ara awaits us.Just a short distance from this village is the La Jayona mine, declared a Natural Monument on account of its considerable scenic interest.

             Hermitage Nuestra Señora de Ara in Fuente del Arco

From Fuente del Arco we travel to Llerena and from there we take the N-432 to Berlanga but not without first passing by the village of Ahillones and making a slight detour to Valverde de Llerena. Our detour to Ahillones, right on the N-432, is to visit its Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. Of Baroque design, it has a beautiful white facade.
The next village that we will visit before reaching Berlanga is Valverde de Llerena which was founded, or so it is believed, in the 13th century by the Knight of the Order of Santiago, Rodrigo de Valverde. The Parish Church of La Inmaculada Concepción is a magnificent Gothic – Mudejar ecclesiastical building from the 16th century.

Once more on the N-432, we stop now in Berlanga, an ancient Roman settlement on the road between Mérida and Córdoba. In the village there are interesting examples of ecclesiastical architecture such as the 16th century Renaissance period Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de Gracia, redesigned in the Baroque style and the 15th century Hermitage of Santo Domingo. Berlanga possesses an attractive countryside leisure park.

Further along this same Roman road we come to a place called Azuaga, one of the most important regional centres with important vestiges of previous historical settlements. However, before we reach Azuaga we will make a detour of just a few kilometres to discover the village of Maguilla where ruins have been uncovered from the Visigoth and late Roman periods.

Back on the road then to Azuaga which is situated in what is clearly a corridor between Baetica and Lusitania. For centuries it would bask in the splendour of what are now the remains of the Muslim built Castle of Miramontes. The 16th century Church of Nuestra Señora de the Consolación is both beautiful and impressive. Markedly influenced by both florid and ogee Gothic, its Puerta del Perdón is of interest as is its important tower facade. The Church de la Merced is in the Mudejar style and the Parish Church of Christ of the “Humilladero” Shrine is Baroque. Be sure not to forget to visit its magnificent ethnographic museum.

Before we return to our itinerary along the N-432 we come to the mountain village of Malcocinado, a picturesque spot set between the foothills of the Sierra Morena where we can contemplate two curious pillars standing more than 15 metres high, right in the middle of the village, known as “El Grande” (the “big one”) and the Fountain of the Machacona. Nor should we forget to visit the Parish Church of San Antonio Abad.

Back now on the N-432 we come to Granja de Torrehermosa which takes its name from the beautiful and impressive Mudejar tower which now forms part of the Church of La Purísima Concepción and which dates back to the first half of the 16th century. Founded in the 15th century this village also contains two interesting Hermitages, one dedicated to Christ of El Humilladero and the other to the Magdalene. The neo-Mudejar building now used as a casino is quite attractive.

We now turn off the N-432 and head northwards along the EX103 until we come to Retamal de Llerena, midway between La Serena and La Campiña Sur and an area in which there are numerous testimonies to the presence of the Romans. This 13th century village is the work of the Master of the Order of Santiago, Pelay Pérez Correa. In the village itself there is an interesting ecclesiastical building, the Parish Church of San Pedro Apóstol, from the 16th century.

From Retamal we drive to Campillo de Llerena which is just beside the Argallanes Mountain Range. This village has an important Gothic-Mudejar style church dedicated to Saint Bartholomew; its principal brick façade is amongst the most beautiful in the entire region.

Heading southeast along the EX-103 we come to Valencia de las Torres where we can discover the 15th century Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción which has a Mudejar style tower facade. Near to Valencia, on the banks of the Matachel River a beautiful medieval bridge has been conserved, dating back to the days when this locality belonged to the Order of Santiago.

Of Visigoth origin, Llera became the property of the Order of Santiago. Its most important ecclesiastic building is that of the Parish Church of Saint Sebastian, from the 15th century. The Hermitage of San Bartolomé is from the 16th century. Just a few kilometres away is a place called Higuera de Llerena which boasts three ecclesiastical buildings well worth mentioning, the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora del Valle, from the 16th century, the interesting Hermitage of the Santo Cristo del Humilladero and the Church of San Isidro. The EX202 runs southwards now and brings us to the village of Usagre. Here the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de Gracia is a Gothic-Mudejar construction from the 15th Century. The Hermitage of the Christ of Pity is interesting as is the so called Casa de la Inquisición and the original bridge of Roman origin.

Bienvenida is nearby and in its Plaza Mayor (Main Square) there is an interesting Parish Church dedicated to Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles which possesses a handsome tower, the first layer of which is in the Mudejar style and the second in 16th century Baroque.

Villagarcía de la Torre is our last port of call, quite close to Llerena and still in proud possession of the ruins of its 16th century castle. The Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de Araceli was built between the 15th and the 17th centuries. The 16th century Convent de la Misericordia is also of interest as is the Casa de las Grajeras, both built in the Baroque style.

GASTRONOMY

Dishes of game, both big and small are found throughout the area as are magnificent cold cuts and hams. “Cachofro”, a lamb stew, in Granja de Torrehermosa. Home made cakes and pastries in Llerena. White “roscos” (sweet bread rolls) in Azuaga. Wine in Azuaga and “Pitarra” wine in Granja de Torrehermosa.

HANDICRAFTS

Leather and ceramics, embroidery in Llerena and Granja de Torrehermosa. Wrought iron and leather in Campillo de Llerena, crochet and basket weaving in Azuaga. Wood carvings and tinplate in Granja de Torrehermosa. Pottery and leather boots in Berlanga.

FESTIVITIES

Easter in Llerena and Azuaga. Carnival is celebrated throughout the region as is the Festival of San Isidro. Llerena holds a fair in the month of September.

NATURE AND COUNTRYSIDE

In this area to the southeast of lower Extremadura, bordering on Sierra Morena, great plains are transformed by slight undulations in the terrain which create broad horizons and landscapes full of oak groves and agricultural lands in which cereals, olives and vines are cultivated.

Great flocks of cranes are common visitors to the region’s pastures between autumn and spring and there is an abundance of birds of prey.