Tierra de contrastes, Extremadura constituye un destino idóneo para quienes quieren entrar en contacto con una realidad nueva, sorprendente y estimulante. Un viaje a través de ella se convierte en un verdadero paseo por la historia, marcando cada recorrido con distintos telones de fondo, con los cambios de unos paisajes a otros. ¡Vívela!
A DAY OUT IN THE SOUTHERN MOUNTAIN RANGE, (LA SIERRA SUR).
Lying to the south of Extremadura, this region is neighbour to the Andalucía province of Huelva and Portugal, in fact the border runs through a good part of the region. This is the kingdom of pata negra (black foot ham), which has turned this region into the most important centre for Iberian ham and cold meats in the entire Peninsula.
AN ITINERARY FOR TOURISTS
Our itinerary through the Southern Mountain Range begins in Fregenal de la Sierra. The fortress here dates back to the days of the Templars and was built on top of the original Arab alcazaba (citadel). Today the old parade ground is occupied by an attractive bull ring. Right beside the fortress is the 15th century Parish Church of Santa María del Castillo. Other interesting ecclesiastical buildings include the Hermitage of the Virgin of the Remedies, the patron saint of Fregenal de la Sierra whose image takes centre place in the famous Gypsy procession (“romería”) which is held at the end of October. Also of note are the Churches of Santa Catalina and Santa Ana, the Convent of Santa Clara, the Convent of La Paz and finally the Jesuit College.
Hermitage of Virgen de los Remedios
En route to Zafra we drive through Valverde de Burguillos. In the nearby Los Jacintos Mountains there is a megalithic dolmen whilst Puebla de Sancho Pérez is also not far away, with its 16th century Church of Santa Lucia, built on the site of an earlier Mudejar style church. This village is home to the famous El Raposo spa. Medina de las Torres conserves its beautiful castle which once belonged to the Order of Santiago and was the centre of the Trusteeship (“la encomienda”). Set on the Roman Vía de la Plata (Silver Route), Medina contains some Roman gravestones and there are inscriptions on the facade of its town hall which stands opposite the Church of Nuestra Señora del Camino, built in the 14th century.
The city of Zafra lies at the foot of the Castelar Mountain Range. In the days of the Arabs it was a strategic locality in between the Kingdoms of Seville and Badajoz and towards the end of the 14th century the first Duke of Feria, Gómez Suárez de Figueroa, claimed it as part of the Feria dominions. In 1437 the second Duke of Feria built the alcázar, the fortress which is now the “Parador”, a Historic and Artistic Monument of National Interest since 1931. The village has a typically medieval layout with narrow streets and houses pressed tightly up against the fortress. Nearby are the so called Plaza Grande (Large square) and Plaza Chica (Small Square).
Leaving Zafra behind we may drive now to the La Lapa, a small hamlet of white houses which has two main points of interest, the 18th century Parish Church of San Onofre and an interesting medieval four arched bridge. The Franciscan Convent of San Onofre has been conserved in the nearby mountains – this is where Saint Peter of Alcántara wrote his Tratado de Oración (Treaty on Prayer). Very close to Zafra, sitting in a plain, is Alconera, famous for its marble and limestone quarries. In the village the Church of San Pedro Apóstol stands out on account of its nave of four bays. The house of the Duques de Feria is still visible.
On to Burguillos del Cerro and its 15th century castle built on top of an earlier Arab military construction. The 13th century Mudejar style Church of Santa María de la Encina once stood nearby. Close to Jerez de los Caballeros and Burguillos del Cerro are the picturesque villages of Brovales, Valuengo and La Bazana, all dependent on irrigated agriculture for a living, set in the midst of beautiful countryside watered by reservoirs which also provide magnificent fishing. From Burguillos del Cerro we drive to Salvatierra de los Barros, a village set in the middle of the mountains, famous for its innovative potteries. Near to the village the so called Pozo de la Nieve (Snow Well) has been conserved. Built in the 16th century by the Duques de Feria it was declared a Property of Cultural Significance in 1990.
On route to Barcarrota we can visit Salvaleón, in the middle of the Monsalud Mountain Range. The ruins of its castle can be made out from afar, although only some towers survive. Salvaleón is famous for its excellent Iberian cured “chacinas” ham. Barcarrota, situated between Jerez de los Caballeros and Badajoz, was once known as Villanueva de Barcarrota and Albarcarrota. In what was the parade ground of its 14th century Castillo de las Siete Torres there now stands a 19th century Bull Ring. The 15th century Church of Nuestra Señora del Soterraño is in the Gothic style, as is the Parish Church of Santiago Apóstol. On our way to Jerez de los Caballeros we come upon Zahínos which is famous for its oak charcoal. There are many typical plants in the surrounding countryside, Mediterranean forest dominates and birds of prey soar through oak groves.
Following Zahínos we arrive now at the region’s main urban centre, Jerez de los Caballeros which dates back to the Phoenicians. Nearby we can visit the famous "Toriñuelo" dolmen, Roman villas, anthropomorphic tombs, and Visigoth ruins etc., all of which testify to the fact that Jerez was populated throughout all these periods of history. The Templar fortress is outstanding and beside it stands the Parish Church of Santa María de la Encarnación, probably built on top of a Visigoth basilica. Other ecclesiastical buildings are the Churches of San Bartolomé and San Miguel, which were initiated in the 15th century under the influence of the Gothic style although its impressive towers were completed in the Baroque fashion. There are numerous palaces and mansions belonging to “corregidores” (mayors) and the noble families who once inhabited Jerez de los Caballeros, as indeed there is also an abundance of beautiful convents, hospitals, beaterios and Hermitages. One of the most characteristic snapshots of this city is that of whitewashed houses nesting alongside parish churches and Baroque towers.
A few kilometres from Jerez de los Caballeros, straight down the N-435 and nesting in an attractive setting amidst impressive mountain landscapes are Valle de Santa Ana and Valle de Matamoros, two neighbouring communities made even more beautiful by their whitewashed houses. In Valle de Saint Ana the most outstanding ecclesiastical building is the Church of Santa Ana, built in Gothic-Mudejar style in the 16th century. In Valle de Matamoros the most emblematic building is also its church dedicated to Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and built in the 16th century.
GASTRONOMY
“Pata negra” ham and cured ham “chacinas”. Wild mushrooms and asparagus in much of the region. Extremadura cooking based on lamb and mountain goat can be found in all of these mountain towns.
HANDICRAFTS
Bordados, alfarería, cuero, mimbre y tallas de madera.
FESTIVITIES
The Easter celebrations in Jerez de los Caballeros have been declared of interest as a Regional Tourist Attraction. In Fregenal de la Sierra the event known as the International Mountain Festival is celebrated from the 10th to the 15th of August and has been declared of interest as a Regional Tourist Attraction. There are important processions (“romerías”) including that of the “Virgen de los Remedios y de la Salud” in Fregenal de La Sierra. There is an extremely important Iberian Ham Fair in Jerez de los Caballeros.
The Easter celebrations in Jerez de los Caballeros
NATURE AND COUNTRYSIDE
Extensive pastures and magnificent Mediterranean forests on the one hand, abrupt mountainous terrain on the other, the area is home to a great number of birds of prey and other species which live together amongst this really beautiful environment. Outstanding landscapes can be seen throughout the area, particularly when climbing up or down the mountains.