Tierra de contrastes, Extremadura constituye un destino idóneo para quienes quieren entrar en contacto con una realidad nueva, sorprendente y estimulante. Un viaje a través de ella se convierte en un verdadero paseo por la historia, marcando cada recorrido con distintos telones de fondo, con los cambios de unos paisajes a otros. ¡Vívela!
STAGE 10: SAN GIL, PLASENCIA, /GALISTEO - CARCABOSO - CÁPARRA
Difficulty: Low
Distance: 32,6 Km.
CONTENTS:
From San Gil we continue our route to the nearby town of Carcaboso, a distance of 12 km, using the old roman route as our path. Nowadays this is covered in asphalt and used as a service road by the Tajo Hydrographic Confederation for irrigation. Around 5 km out of San Gil, on our right, we can make out the hard working agricultural town of Pradochano where an H3 provides us with information about our route. In general the countryside in this stretch is of corn and tobacco from spring to autumn.
Five kilometres further along we arrive at the EX-370 which we take by turning left. Following this road for 2 km brings us to Carcaboso. The roman route continues in front of us, crossing the river Jerte over the Guinea Bridge and we will join this route again a little further along since our passable route rejoins it after going through Carcaboso. The H3 sign located at the entrance to Carcaboso tells us about this town and the stretch that we are about to walk to Casa de Ventaquemada. This sign is only a few metres from the Santiago Apóstol parish church where attached to the façade of the church we can find some beautiful examples of milestones from the time of the emperor Trajano.
We cross the town and along the street called “calle Pozo” which marked by a yellow sign, we once again look for the roman route along the "Oliva" pathway. We find the roman route after 3 km, next to some driers and in the dehesa de San Pedrillo. Marked by green and yellow signs, the pathway continues between fertile plains and woodland areas which become oak groves a couple of kilometres after passing through some gates on the route.
Some 2.7 km after joining the roman route we arrive at a service road on the right hand side of the river Jerte. We take this to our left for 200 m and then turn to the right and pass over the canal which is in front of a gate. We go through this gate and enter the stone-walled path indicated by the green-yellow signs. Two kilometres further on there is a H3 which tells us about the town of Valdeobispo and our route which, exactly following the roman route, is alongside a stone wall which we see in front of the H3 and that will stay on our right as we walk through the beautiful oak groves.
After walking for 1.2 km a gate appears to our right and we go through this, but not before looking at the fallen CIII milestone and further on a small stone wall where we also find a group of another four milestones.Going through the gate, the route continues to our left along the stone wall, taking us through holm and cork oak trees. After 2.8 km, marked by several signs, we find a gate on our left and a yellow sign which shows us the passable route to follow. A green sign opposite shows the old roman route. Some 600 m along this path we find another asphalt road which we take to the right, although not without first reading the H3 sign which tells us about the nearby town of Ahigal. We follow this asphalt track for 2.5 km until we reach the road that connects Ahigal with Oliva de Plasencia. Only a few metres away is an H3 opposite Casa de Ventaquemada.
The town of Oliva de Plasencia is only 6 km away from this point and it contains a Vía de la Plata Tourist Hostel. Some archaeological remains have been found in Oliva de Plasencia which indicate that there was a roman presence in this area. For example, there are some altar stones and headstones as well as the milestones, one of these being very close to the sixteenth century San Blas parish church.
After Casa de Ventaquemada the road takes us to Cáparra which is around 6 km away. The route is not difficult and involves walking through oak groves and crossing some streams that we meet such as those of Torrucas and Charco Blanco. One kilometre before we enter into the roman stopping point mansio Capara, we pass in front of the Casa Blanca house and a sign shows us the correct route which, through densely packed and beautiful woods, takes us to the impressive Cuadrifronte de Cáparra arch, the unmistakable symbol of this city which thanks to recent work by archaeologists has been recognised for its historical importance. Next to this beautiful arch is the CX milestone, indicating that 110 miles separated Augusta Emerita from Capara.
Visitors can find out all about this city on the roman route by visiting its magnificent and educational Vía de la Plata interpretation centre. This is located just a few metres away from the famous Arch and can be reached by walking along one of the paths which in olden times was the fortified entrance and main gate to the roman mansio.
WHAT TO EAT
The gastronomy is very varied and tasty. Throughout almost all of the stretch visitors having the opportunity to try dished made from kid and lamb, along with fried suckling pig, sheep’s milk and goat’s milk cheeses and potatoes marinated in vinegar (escabeche). Never failing to delight us are the fantastic Iberian hams and meats cured in these high and cold locations during the winter period. There is no shortage of delicious mushroom dishes, with boletus and níscalo mushrooms being used in stews with lamb and kid.
Home made and artisan sweets are on offer throughout this stretch of our route, with artisan ovens abounding in many of the towns that we cross. The chestnuts from this region are famed throughout Extremadura.
SHOPPING
Famed leather goods and artistic wrought iron from Hervás, as well as excellent furniture and wood carvings, which can also be found in Aldeanueva del Camino. Zarza de Granadilla is famous for its leather, furniture and stone items.
WALKING, PEDALLING AND HORSE RIDING
Mountains, wide woodland areas full of pines, chestnuts, holm oaks and many small gorges are the hallmarks of the countryside which accompanies hiking and mountain biking fans along these marked routes. From the A-66 it is easy to reach Granadilla and the historical Cáparra, towns which are only a few kilometres off this national road. From Cabezabellosa it is interesting to cross the mountains in search of the southerly part of Jerte valley, making out along our route some of the largest oak trees in Extremadura.
There are many companies in the district that offer visitors the chance to go horse riding in the area. Fishing and water sports are also well catered for with the Gabriel y Galán Reservoir. Paragliding can be practiced in Cabezabellosa.
ALTERNATIVE ROUTES
Through the Puerto de Honduras Mountain Pass to the Jerte Valley and La Vera
From Hervás we invite lovers of beautiful countryside to cross the often snow covered Puerto de Honduras pass and discover Jerte Valley and La Vera. From the mountain pass there are wonderful views of the Ambroz Valley with its numerous chestnut and oak forests and the many groups of horses which live in a semi-wild state.
Through Cabezabellosa to the Jerte Valley and la Vera
From Cabezabellosa the visitor can reach Jerte Valley and from there the district of La Vera. On our way to Jerte we pass through countryside which is the kingdom of the oak tree and find in this area some of the oldest and largest oak trees in Extremadura.
Through Guijo de Granadilla to las Hurdes
From Guijo de Granadilla the visitor can go to the beautiful neighbouring district of Ambroz Valley de Hurdes, only a few kilometres from the A-66 dual carriageway, crossing beautiful landscapes to reach Casar de Palomero and from there Pinofranqueado.
SURROUNDING AREA
Wide areas dedicate to irrigated cultivation and the area close to the river Jerte accompany the walker for much of this stretch which connects the historical town of Galisteo with Cáparra, once known as Capara when it was an important roman centre.
Plasencia, only 9 km way, was founded in 1186 by King Alfonso VIII and has a wonderful historical and artistic heritage. Its main square, full of beautiful arcades, is the starting point for any visit to this city which on the first Tuesday of August celebrates its famous “Martes Mayor” (Great Tuesday) which has been declared an Extremaduran Festival of Interest to Tourists.There are many religious, civil and military buildings worthy of being discovered in this beautiful city on the banks of the river Jerte, but without doubt the highlight is the two cathedrals, la Vieja and la Nueva (the old and the new). The first is from the transition from Romanesque to Gothic and the new cathedral, connected to the old one, was completed in the middle of the sixteenth century by Gil de Hontañón.There are many palaces in the city, of which we can mention the fifteenth century "marqueses del Mirabel” palace and the thirteenth century “los Monroy” palace. There is also an Interpretation Centre about this medieval city located in the famous Torre Lucía tower which forms part of the old city walls around the city of Plasencia.
Its large old town offers the visitor further civil and religious buildings as well as some of the most important ethnographic collections in Extremadura with the Ethnographic Museum and the "Pérez Enciso” Textile Museum.
Leaving behind the lands irrigated by the Jerte, the route gives way to the plains of Jarilla, with their many holm oak groves, and we move into the Ambroz Valley, natural neighbour of two of the most attractive tourist districts in Extremadura, Jerte Valley and Vera Valley. The countryside, as has been the case for much of our route through Extremadura, possesses a fauna which is particularly special due to the great variety of birds that inhabit the banks and wetlands of these latitudes and the vast woodland areas of holm and cork oak trees through which the Vía de la Plata passes as it continues its way through the north of Extremadura.
Jerte Valley is very attractive countryside and this confers it a year-round special microclimate. A particularly good time to visit is spring when the thousands of cherry trees that populate the valley, from Tornavacas to the outskirts of Plasencia, blossom. The "Cereza en Flor" festival has been declared an Extremadura Festival of Interest to Tourists, as has the Jarramplas festival held in Piornal in January.
Amongst the most attractive areas with this Valley are the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve which can be reached from the Interpretation Centre on the outskirts of Jerte.
The district of Vera, in common with Jerte, possesses a microclimate which favours the cultivation of a great variety of crops and the presence of an unusually beautiful landscape. Some of the towns have sites of great historical value, such as the Monasterio de Yuste, the last abode of the emperor Carlos V who also spent some time in the neighbouring town of Jarandilla de la Vera. This has its magnificent “condes de Oropesa” castle and overnight on 7 December it holds its Escobazos (brooms) festival, declared to be of interest to tourists.
One of the most beautiful features of this district is, without doubt, its vernacular architecture which is among the best preserved in the north of Extremadura. Its streets and squares are the location for many festival of interest to tourists such as the Peropalo in Villanueva de la Vera during the start of lent and Los Empalaos (Impaled ones) in Valverde de la Vera on Maundy Thursday.
The gastronomy in these valleys is appreciated by all. Worthy of special mention are the cherries, paprika, raspberries, trout, sautéed lamb, kid, liquors and good “pitarra” wines.