Tierra de contrastes, Extremadura constituye un destino idóneo para quienes quieren entrar en contacto con una realidad nueva, sorprendente y estimulante. Un viaje a través de ella se convierte en un verdadero paseo por la historia, marcando cada recorrido con distintos telones de fondo, con los cambios de unos paisajes a otros. ¡Vívela!
STAGE 11: CÁPARRA - ALDEANUEVA DEL CAMINO - BAÑOS DE MONTEMAYOR
Difficulty: Medium/Low
Distance: 21, 0 Km.
CONTENTS:
From the Arco de Cáparra arch we continue our walk in the direction of Aldeanueva del Camino, doing so by crossing the road located at the exit of the archaeological complex and finding a green-yellow sign which shows us the route to follow. This is a narrow path of stone and fencing, with holm oak groves to the left and right. This scenery continues for around 2 km until we reach a gate which is the starting point for a much wider path.
After going through this gate we walk a further 2.5 km, crossing various gates and streams, until we come across an H3 sign which provides information about Zarza de Granadilla. From this H3, one kilometre further on amongst the holm oak groves, we follow the marked signs and after passing a fence start to travel along an asphalt road which belongs to the Ambroz irrigable area and which we follow for a further 5 km until the intersection with the La Granja road only a few metres from a roundabout for the A-66.
When we meet the road that connects the A-66 with Zarza de Granadilla, noticing the old roman route on our right, as shown by a green sign, for safety purposes it is recommended that we walk as close as possible to the edges of the road. Shortly before reaching the crossing of the La Granja road, and on the right hand side of this asphalt road, we see some archaeological excavations which arose as a result of the route taken by the Autovía Vía de la Plata (Vía de la Plata Highway), between woodland areas of holm and cork oak, in the vicinity of the site of a roman settlement in this area.
Several metres further on we turn left, cross a stream and, while the old roman route follows a viaduct under the road, the passable route continues until the crossroads with the la Granja district road. From this crossroads we join the A-66 and walk in the direction of Aldeanueva del Camino until on the right hand side we see a pathway marked with a yellow sign. We take this to rejoin the old roman route and walk amongst the holm and cork oaks on the outskirts of Aldeanueva.
After walking along a section of the roman route in a good state of repair, we find ourselves at a crossing of paths where a green sign points forward but a yellow sign indicates that we must cross the dual carriageway over a viaduct to once again follow the route of the old A-66. This will take us to the sign at the entrance of Aldeanueva, at which point we turn to the right and 20 metres further on new green-yellow signs signal the entrance to the town through "avenida de las Olivas” after crossing the road which goes to Gargantilla and Segura de Toro.
Aldeanueva del Camino is located right on the Vía de la Plata, as is suggested by its name, which goes from north to south in the Valle de Ambroz district. Amongst its buildings of historical and artistic interest we can mention the Ntra. Sra. del Olmo church, of Romanesque origin and completed between the fifteenth and sixteenth century, and the San Servando church which dates back to the same period. We can also mention the curious roman bridge erected over the “garganta buitrera” gorge and an original piece of mosaic work showing the Vía de la Plata through Extremadura which can be seen at the start of the street “calle Oliva”. The market square has some good example of vernacular architecture with large wooden balconies.
We leave Aldeanueva del Camino in the direction of Baños de Montemayor through “plaza del Humilladero” square, but not before first reading the H3 located close to the Town Hall which provides some historical information about Aldeanueva and the most interesting points the we will find on our way to the last Roman mansio on Extremaduran soil, Caelionicco, located in the outskirts of Baños de Montemayor, the sixth in the 132 miles from Emerita.
Following the A-66 we cross the first roundabout and take the exit marked Baños-Hervás. This takes us to a second roundabout and here we take the exit marked Hervás (EX - 208) which further forward will bring us to the old A-66 in the direction of Baños. On our route we cross two bridges, the first probably of Roman origin, called Romanillos, over the San Andrés gorge and the second the Puente de las Doncellas bridge over the river Ambroz. Further on to our right we find the Aula de la Naturaleza el Salugral (Salugral Nature Rooms).
At kilometre 431 we rejoin the roman route for some 800 metres and here we can see the original surface and side supports. This takes us into Baños de Montemayor, passing the sixteenth century Cristo de la Misericordia Hermitage. Baños was a mansio (stopping point) on the Vía de la Plata that was famous during the roman period for its thermal waters. Over the centuries these became the basic pillar for the construction of an excellent spa, expanded over the last few years and now considered one of the most modern thermal spas in Europe.
The expansion and improvement work to the old spa has brought to light various rooms from the roman period and archaeological findings of undoubtedly historical value. These are open to the public. Baños has a tourist Hostel located in a magnificently restored traditional house, as well as an Interpretation Centre dealing with the Vía de la Plata through Extremadura which, in common with those in Monesterio and Mérida, explains to the visitor and the walker the historical, artistic and cultural aspects of this communication route which crosses the Extremaduran region from north to south. In Baños de Montemayor, the end point for our route, we can visit the Santa María de la Asunción parish church, built between the sixteenth and seventeenth century and the Santa Catalina church, with ironwork details, built in the sixteenth century.
Continuing our route towards the north, we can enjoy, from the highest point in the town, unforgettable views of Ambroz Valley and can walk along the restored roman route which continues its way north crossing the neighbouring region of Castile and Leon.
WHAT TO EAT
Products from the vegetable garden are used in cooking dishes such as zorongollo (pepper and tomato salad) or roast pepper salad with onion and garlic, las patatas escabechás, which is marinated potatoes in vinegar, a potato stew which is eaten cold, and tomate al Perico. The pasturelands of Baños de Montemayor give the lamb, kid and beef a special texture and flavour. The outstanding dishes are the “caldereta” casserole of lamb or kid, the carnes asadas, or roast meats, and envueltillo de ternera (rolled beef). Special mention should be made of the Iberian ham and cured meats which are produced using an artisan process, even with the curing, the goats cheese which is cured for different lengths of time and the "pitarra" wines made the traditional way.
SHOPPING
The artisan culture of this area, largely centred in Baños de Montemayor, is reflected in the creation of chestnut wickerwork. After the selection, cutting and transport of the wood, the sticks are obtained which can then be used to produce the baskets. The preparation of the wood using the processes called heating and carving, with the subsequent steps of founding the basket, making the hoops and raising or weaving the basket, allow the production by hand of trays, hampers and other wooden utensils.
WALKING, PEDALLING AND HORSE RIDING
Mirador de la Estación view point and La Garganta (ravine)
Setting off from Baños de Montemayor in the direction of Salamanca, we start to move uphill until we find a sign which takes us to the Estación, at approximately two kilometres. This is where the lookout can be found. From here we can admire the excellent views of the town and the Baños reservoir. The town of La Garganta is five kilometres away from this point. This route can also be done by bicycle. Other attractive routes in Baños include: the Calamocha route, the La Garganta route and the El Calvario-Plaza de Toros route.
ALTERNATIVE ROUTES
Through Ambroz Valley
This route passes through one of the most typical valleys in the north of Extremadura, located between the areas of Hurdes and Jerte Valley, bordering onto the Salamanca area of Puerto de Béjar. The countryside changes as we travel from Plasencia to Baños de Montemayor or Hervás, as can be clearly appreciated both from the vegetation and the good climate. There are some magnificent examples of vernacular mountain architecture in all of the towns. Special mention should be made of the famous Jewish quarter in Hervás and some of the neighbourhoods in Aldeanueva del Camino.
SURROUNDING AREA
Towards Baños de Montemayor the Vía de la Plata enters the Ambroz Valley district, between crops and wide holm oak groves, with the base of the Trasierra mountains to the east, an area which is rich in cherry, chestnut, oak and holm oak trees which give it a special green colour and which surround a number of towns which appear to be hanging onto the side of this rocky and beautiful mountain.
Among these towns, Segura de Toro is worthy of mention. In the town square stands a pre-roman statue of a boar typical of the veton and lusitano populations that once inhabited this area. Not far away is Castaño del Temblar, a chestnut tree which is 800 years old and 19 metres high and has been declared a Special Extremaduran Tree. Also of interest is the Alcornoque de la Fresneda cork oak tree, between Aldeanueva del Camino and Valdealmatanza, which is approximately 500 years old.
From Casas del Monte we can visit Castaños del Corchive which is five hundred years old.
Hervás, close to Baños de Montemayor and Aldeanueva del Camino, retains a wonderful Jewish quarter which has been declared a Historical Artistic Old Town. Museums such as Pérez Comendador museum and the Classic Motorcycle Museum are interesting options for visitors to the town which contains many beautiful religious and civil buildings. The town has a tourist Hostel and an Interpretation Centre on the Railway in Extremadura, both housed in the old station, and a magnificent boutique hotel "Hospedería Valle del Ambroz”.
Almost alongside the Vía de la Plata we can find towns with a rich history such as Abadía with its renaissance palace built for the dukes of Alba which has been declared a Historical and Artistic Monument. Next to the Gabriel y Galán reservoir, a meeting point for fans of fishing and water sports, the restored Granadilla was founded by the Muslims in the ninth century and declared a Historical and Artistic site. It has magnificently retained its historic circular walls.
To the west of this route are the peaks of the Sierra de Gata and one of the most natural districts in Extremadura, Las Hurdes, which offers the visitor beautiful landscapes with waterfalls, majestic meanders and natural pools around which farmhouses and small towns cluster with a very special architecture and excellent gastronomy.
There are two special trees within this district, Los Tejos in La Alquería de El Cerezal and the Enebro de las Mestas, a Hurdes farmhouse located next to a old factory from the times of Alfonso XIII which has been converted into the boutique hotel “Hospedería Hurdes Reales”, very close to the beautify meander of Riomalo de Abajo.
In August Pinofranqueado celebrates the Enramá festival, declared an Extremaduran Festival of Interest to Tourists.