RUTA VÍA DE LA PLATA
STAGE 8: CÁCERES - CASAR DE CÁCERES-EMBALSE DE ALCÁNTARA (GARROVILLAS DE ALCONÉTAR)
Difficulty: Medium
Distance: 30,5 Km.
CONTENTS:
- STATEMENT
- WHAT TO EAT
- SHOPPING
- WALKING, PEDALLING AND HORSE RIDING
- ALTERNATIVE ROUTES
- SURROUNDING AREA
We leave Cáceres from the bullring (Plaza de Toros), which is the start of the road which will take us to Casar de Cáceres. We follow this for 2.5 km until we reach a roundabout which indicates that we are finally leaving the city in the direction of Casar. One kilometre further along the same road, the pathway called “Royal” or “Sierrilla” cattle track starts. We follow this for 3.5 km and after crossing the dual carriage way at an over pass we walk a further 2km to a service station. The path that we are following, which does not contain many trees, is not very difficult except for the part that crosses the dual carriageway.
In Casar de Cáceres we find the street called “calle Larga Alta” which is where the roman route crossed this town. We can see this from the milestone found at the San Blas Hermitage, some 3 km from Casar. Famous for its cheese production (we are referring of course to the “torta del Casar”, an authentic gastronomic delight), the town also contains some buildings of historical and artistic interest, such as the Ntra. Sra. de la Asunción parish church built between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries in gothic style and the Santiago Hermitage which is on the old Vía de la Plata where it leaves the town in the direction of the Alcántara reservoir.
Gate Church of Casar de Cáceres
On leaving Casar de Cáceres an H3 sign can be found next to signs for the Interpretation Centre with exhibits about the livestock routes that cross Spain, called "vías pecuarias”. The H3 sign shows the direction we should follow. We come across several milestones next to the path, an unequivocal sign that this was once the roman route. The first of these appears on the right of the track some 7.5 km from the H3. For 2 km from the first milestone we can enjoy seeing the greatest concentration of these old roman milestones, particularly in the place called Lomo de la Plata where there are nine of them, although some have fallen, next to a fence to the left of the path.
Later in this stretch visitors can enjoy a magnificent example of the old roman route which even retains the original lateral supports and surface. These features appear shortly after Lomo de la Plata and especially after crossing the gate of the Cumbre Oscura farm which can be made out on our right on a large hill.
Following the green-yellow signs we continue on our route between stone walls which narrow at times and make this a route of great beauty. At the end of this stretch and approximately 2 km from the Cumbre Oscura farm a gate appears with two cement posts. If we turn to our left, without losing contact with the stone wall, around 50 metres further on we will find a number of milestones embedded to form part of this stone wall.
Returning to our path, we then pass a little white house on our left and start the 1.5 km descent to the Alcántara reservoir, through gates and over cattle grids, after which, with the invaluable help of yellow signs which mark the route to take over the A-66 and descend back down, until we cross the bridge built over the Almonte used by this road.
From the cattle crossing over the A-66 we can make out the majestic Alcántara reservoir, constructed in 1969. The bed of the reservoir contains the remains of what was the roman “mansio Turmulus”, some 20 miles from Castra Caecilia and on the route of the roman road which passed through those lars. If the reservoir is not very full visitors can see the “torre de los Florines" tower from the fifteenth century, the remains of what was Alconétar in Medieval times, born under the protection of the Alconétar bridge, a construction which was built in the era of the emperor Trajano to span the waters of the river Tagus (Tajo) and that was luckily moved from its original site to a few kilometres away from the reservoir next to the A-66 and over the river Sapo. This can easily be seen on our route.
Along the A-66, once we have passed the bridge over the river Almonte which flows into the Alcántara reservoir, we leave behind the railway station and sailing club, but not before having first crossed another bridge which spans the waters of the river Tagus (Tajo). Shortly afterwards we reach a restaurant called Miraltajo where an H3 sign provides information about the new stretch that we are going to follow. This starts on the other side of the A-66 and will takes us to Grimaldo, passing close to Cañaveral.
Just 500m away visitors can find a Vía de la Plata Tourist Hostel on the banks of the reservoir.
WHAT TO EAT
This is the area of trout and tench, of wonderful "bacalaos monacales” (cod dishes with potatoes and spinach), and dishes made from kid and lamb, with special mention being merited by the Extremadura “caldereta” (casserole) and “migas” (fried breadcrumbs and pork), recipes which have been inherited from earlier times when herding and the movement of the human population provided cultural and gastronomic exchanges. To the very famous Casar cheeses and “tortas” made from sheep’s milk we can add others which are made from goat’s milk. There is no shortage of hams and cured meats made from the meat of the Iberian Pig.
All along this route we have good examples of homemade and convent made sweets which are exquisite. The closeness of the valleys to the north shows its influence in the use of the wonderful cherry liquors and “pitarra” wines.
SHOPPING
Leather goods can be purchased in Malpartida, cabinets and wrought iron in Garrovillas and ceramics, furniture and wrought iron in Plasencia. Torrejoncillo is famous for its lamps, items made from gold or leather and pottery, not forgetting of course its embroidered fabrics. In Arroyo de la Luz they make magnificent pottery items.
WALKING, PEDALLING AND HORSE RIDING
Los Barruecos, where there is no shortage of attractive ponds for fishing, with authorisation for tench (this is true for many of the municipal and private ponds along the route). We must not forget that Pantano de Alcántara and with it the Tagus (Tajo) and Almonte rivers, are true paradises for the fisherman and lovers of water sports.
In the Monfragüe National Park the route are wonderfully marked and as a result lovers of hiking are guaranteed a fun day out with lots of beautiful places from which to observe the animals and countryside.
In Torrejón el Rubio we can find guides and groups of young people who specialise in recreational activities.
ALTERNATIVE ROUTES
Towards Alcántara
After visiting Garrovillas, the visitor is only a few kilometres away from the area that borders onto Portugal. Here there are two towns with a wonderful historical legacy, Brozas and Alcántara, where the famous bridge from roman times is one of the best preserved water related works in Europe dating back to this era.
Alcántara Bridge
SURROUNDING AREA
On the stretch from Cáceres to the Alcántara reservoir the Vía de la Plata passes through the district of Montánchez-Tamuja before reaching the Tajo-Salor-Almonte district.
Wide open pasturelands, which were once covered in oak forests, are the fruit of the actions of man which over the centuries have converted this into a “pseudoestepárica” area of great value.
The Llanos de Cáceres have been declared a Special Bird Protection area and are home to the largest population of great bustards in Extremadura. This is not to forget the large number of little bustards, Montagu´s harriers and lesser kestrels. In the los Riveros area black storks, water birds and birds of prey can also be seen.Next to the reservoir is the town of Garrovillas de Alconétar. Here, next to the river Tagus (Tajo), visitors can find some dolmens and the remains of a roman villa with mosaics which is next to the Santa Marina Hermitage. The highlight among its religious buildings is the fifteenth century San Pedro church, but even more impressive are its civil constructions and its main square (plaza mayor) which has been declared a National Historical and Artistic Monument of Interest. The square is also home to the fifteenth century Alba de Liste palace which has been converted into a boutique hotel (Hospedería de Turismo).
Very close to Cáceres is Arroyo de la Luz in whose La Asunción parish church visitors can admire one of the most important altarpieces in Extremadura, work of the Extremaduran painter Luís de Morales. On Easter Monday Arroyo celebrates the "Las Carreras” festival, declared an Extremaduran Festival of Interest to Tourists.
On the way to Alcántara we find Brozas, villa for the Alcántara Order, where some of the palaces and religious buildings which in those days were part of an important centre for the nobility of Cáceres have been preserved. Nearby we can find the San Gregorio spa which has highly valued sulfhydric waters and probably dates back to roman times.
Alcántara possesses one of the most important water based roman constructions on the peninsular, its bridge, which was constructed in 2 AD and stretches for more than 200 m across the river Tagus (Tajo). This is where the Alcántara Order established its base, with the highlights being the San Benito Conventual built by the Order in the sixteenth century in the pro-gothic style and the Ntra. Sra. de Almocóvar church.
To the west of our route and on the banks of the river Almonte we find Monroy in whose surrounds a roman villa Las Aguzaderas has been found. The town contains a majestic castle which dates back to the mid fifteenth century.